The source of the Nile (Kenya)
3rd July to 3rd August
We’ve made it! No, not finished the trip but successfully followed the Nile (the worlds lon
gest river - 6700 km) from the Mediterranean to its source, well, one of its sources as there is some debate over the ‘true source’. That aside we are currently camped in a town called Jinja in Uganda , on the shores of Lake Victoria over looking the ‘major source’ of the Nile . The place is full over ‘youngsters’ (early 20’s) who have come for the white water rafting, kayaking, bungee jumping etc. which you can do on the Nile but we are waiting for the true Mecca of adrenalin, the Zambezi river in Zambia, before we test ourselves against the ‘full force’ of nature, plus of course where we will be joined by the king of adrenalin himself, Mr Roddy Bridges!!! Tomorrow we move onto Kampala (my birth place) and then on up north to Murchison Falls National Park in search of chimpanzees and gorillas!!
So that brings us up to date but what have we been up to in the last month? I think we last left you in Mombassa where we were camping on the idyllic white beaches of the Kenyan south coast. Well, we managed to drag ourselves away after 6 days of doing very little except swimming in the Indian Ocean , eating fresh fish and fruit while relaxing – it was tough! We were re-united in the last few days with Retu and Victoria (Swiss / Argentinean couple) who we last saw in Sudan which was fun. On the subject of fellow travelers we also found Richard and Sasha (1955 Royal Enfield Motorbike) still going strong in Nairobi , though the bike was under going some repairs (broken frame!!).
From Tiwi beach we headed back to Nairobi to abuse Rogers hospitality once again but this time for only one night as we then jumped into a ‘time machine’ (Boeing 767) and ‘popped’ back to the UK….. how bizarre was that! Six months of pretty tough traveling with plenty of adventures along the way and in 8.5 hours we were right back where we started, as if it was yesterday – most strange! We were back for a family wedding which was unfortunately cancelled but that is another long story; we still made the most of our time catching up with as many friends and family as we could (apologies for all those we did not get to see) which was fantastic! Big thanks to everyone for feeding, watering and housing us during our stay – 5 curries in 9 nights washed down with a few ales certainly helped us regain some of those lost pounds!! It was certainly great to see everyone & has made us realize how much we miss our pals!! Another few days in Portugal with respected families were most enjoyable before it was time to jump back into the ‘time machine’ and resume our intrepid trek south through the Dark Continent.
We arrived back in Nairobi to be reunited with Bula on Monday the 23rd July, so have now been back on the road for 10 days, which again feels as though we have never been away! Bula was delighted to have us back and was raring to go, despite the 5 hour job, draining, removing and replacing the transfer gear box after a ‘foreign object’ got inside – it was messy but I got there ably supported by my assistant mechanic Clare! Despite Roger being in the UK we still ‘utilised’ his house and were royally looked after by Zablon and Tipena, thanks again Roger, we did leave you a few Tuskers!!!.
From Rogers we headed into Nairobi city centre to sort out insurance etc a
nd stayed in Jungle Junction, an overlanders camp not far from where I grew up – lots of happy memories! Insurance sorted we visited the Elehphant orphanage, passing my old school on the way and headed north west for a night on Lake Naivasha. From Naivasha we decided to take a short cut, which ended up taking 3 hours to cover 15 miles, over some pretty tough terrain and getting suitably lost but we eventually got to Kericho and camped at the old Tea Hotel, where Clare beat me at dominoes for the
2nd time (time to stop playing)!! The next day we got our first sight of Lake Victoria at Kisumu before heading to the Kakemega Forest, the only Kenya vestige of the unique and once mighty Guineo – Congolian Rainforest, complete with over 330 species of birds, 400 species of butterflies and 7 different primate species, along with a host of other creepy crawlies and bugs! It was certainly a fascinating place with huge trees and immense undergrowth which we explored during a 3 hour guided walk, managing to spot 4 of the 7 primates including the rare red tailed monkey. However, as it is rain forest we did get rain & this seemed to set the tone for the next few days. From
Kakamega we headed north (crossing the equator for the 6th time) to Kitale where we intended to visit Mount Elgon (famous for its cave dwelling / salt digging elephants); we camped in the garden of a 3rd generation settler family run by mother and daughter, both quite potty but extremely hospitable. From here we visited Kenya ’s smallest Nati
onal Park, Saiwa Marsh, where we were extremely lucky to see the rare De Brazza Monkeys and Sitatunga Antelope. However, that afternoon once again the heavens opened and continued for the next 12 hours solid, which is not fun when you are camping! As well as getting soaked it put paid to our intended ‘off road’ route around Mount Elgon into Uganda, as the roads were now a quagmire, so instead we stuck to the tarmac and entered Uganda through the regular route at Malaba. The crossing was relatively smooth and we soon reached Jinja on
ly for the rain to follow us, so we were in for another damp night. Thankfully today the sun is out and it is hot so wet bedding is out and Clare has managed to wash a few of our dirty clothes, so things are looking brighter again (plus sweeter smelling).
Kenya has been our longest stay (40 days) and a thoughrly enjoyable one, though we won’t miss the roads, with a great mix of game parks, friends and relaxation. We have found the people friendly, the camp sites well set up, and the shops well stocked, so all in all traveling has become a tad easier and much more civilized. Uganda has been described as the ‘pearl of Africa ’ (Winston Churchill) so we are excited about this next leg and hope to report lots of adventures.
As we are now over half way we thought a few facts and figures might be of interest;
Total distance traveled: 17,000 miles ( 27,358 kms)
Bula ailments: 4 punctures, 2 new tyres, 2 new rear shocks, new slave
cylinder (clutch), 2 new rear brakes & a few leaks here & there!
Time on road: 7 months or 200+ nights (85 in the tent)
Countries: 14 - crossing deserts, mountains, savannah, tropical forest & much more!!
Animals identified/spotted : 60 – including the rare / endangered Simien Wolf,
Mountain Nyla, De Brazza Monkey, Sitatunga, Grevy Zebra and White Rhino plus 4 out of the Big Five (Elephant, Lion, Buffalo and Rhino with only the Leopard to find).
Finally, a few best wishes and thanks to the following:-
Pickles on finding a man, getting engaged and confirming a wedding day all in the space of 10 months!!!! Go girl & have fun!
Lee and Gemma on there forthcoming marriage – enjoy Kenya !!
Sabine on her promotion to account manager at SMTUK
Vicky Elmer on being such a star in helping with our rather slow money raising effort – come on there are still loads of you with rather short arms & long pockets – just go onto www.justgiving.com/grahamclare & pledge a few sheckles, thanks.
Jacko on getting caught out & finally getting on with his life!!
And last but by no means least a huge congrats & best wishes to Sally in her personal health battle, we are all with you & you know you can beat it!!
Until the next time, take care & hope the floods have subsided…..you never know there may be a late summer to come!!
gest river - 6700 km) from the Mediterranean to its source, well, one of its sources as there is some debate over the ‘true source’. That aside we are currently camped in a town called Jinja in Uganda , on the shores of Lake Victoria over looking the ‘major source’ of the Nile . The place is full over ‘youngsters’ (early 20’s) who have come for the white water rafting, kayaking, bungee jumping etc. which you can do on the Nile but we are waiting for the true Mecca of adrenalin, the Zambezi river in Zambia, before we test ourselves against the ‘full force’ of nature, plus of course where we will be joined by the king of adrenalin himself, Mr Roddy Bridges!!! Tomorrow we move onto Kampala (my birth place) and then on up north to Murchison Falls National Park in search of chimpanzees and gorillas!!So that brings us up to date but what have we been up to in the last month? I think we last left you in Mombassa where we were camping on the idyllic white beaches of the Kenyan south coast. Well, we managed to drag ourselves away after 6 days of doing very little except swimming in the Indian Ocean , eating fresh fish and fruit while relaxing – it was tough! We were re-united in the last few days with Retu and Victoria (Swiss / Argentinean couple) who we last saw in Sudan which was fun. On the subject of fellow travelers we also found Richard and Sasha (1955 Royal Enfield Motorbike) still going strong in Nairobi , though the bike was under going some repairs (broken frame!!).
From Tiwi beach we headed back to Nairobi to abuse Rogers hospitality once again but this time for only one night as we then jumped into a ‘time machine’ (Boeing 767) and ‘popped’ back to the UK….. how bizarre was that! Six months of pretty tough traveling with plenty of adventures along the way and in 8.5 hours we were right back where we started, as if it was yesterday – most strange! We were back for a family wedding which was unfortunately cancelled but that is another long story; we still made the most of our time catching up with as many friends and family as we could (apologies for all those we did not get to see) which was fantastic! Big thanks to everyone for feeding, watering and housing us during our stay – 5 curries in 9 nights washed down with a few ales certainly helped us regain some of those lost pounds!! It was certainly great to see everyone & has made us realize how much we miss our pals!! Another few days in Portugal with respected families were most enjoyable before it was time to jump back into the ‘time machine’ and resume our intrepid trek south through the Dark Continent.
We arrived back in Nairobi to be reunited with Bula on Monday the 23rd July, so have now been back on the road for 10 days, which again feels as though we have never been away! Bula was delighted to have us back and was raring to go, despite the 5 hour job, draining, removing and replacing the transfer gear box after a ‘foreign object’ got inside – it was messy but I got there ably supported by my assistant mechanic Clare! Despite Roger being in the UK we still ‘utilised’ his house and were royally looked after by Zablon and Tipena, thanks again Roger, we did leave you a few Tuskers!!!.From Rogers we headed into Nairobi city centre to sort out insurance etc a
nd stayed in Jungle Junction, an overlanders camp not far from where I grew up – lots of happy memories! Insurance sorted we visited the Elehphant orphanage, passing my old school on the way and headed north west for a night on Lake Naivasha. From Naivasha we decided to take a short cut, which ended up taking 3 hours to cover 15 miles, over some pretty tough terrain and getting suitably lost but we eventually got to Kericho and camped at the old Tea Hotel, where Clare beat me at dominoes for the
2nd time (time to stop playing)!! The next day we got our first sight of Lake Victoria at Kisumu before heading to the Kakemega Forest, the only Kenya vestige of the unique and once mighty Guineo – Congolian Rainforest, complete with over 330 species of birds, 400 species of butterflies and 7 different primate species, along with a host of other creepy crawlies and bugs! It was certainly a fascinating place with huge trees and immense undergrowth which we explored during a 3 hour guided walk, managing to spot 4 of the 7 primates including the rare red tailed monkey. However, as it is rain forest we did get rain & this seemed to set the tone for the next few days. From
Kakamega we headed north (crossing the equator for the 6th time) to Kitale where we intended to visit Mount Elgon (famous for its cave dwelling / salt digging elephants); we camped in the garden of a 3rd generation settler family run by mother and daughter, both quite potty but extremely hospitable. From here we visited Kenya ’s smallest Nati
onal Park, Saiwa Marsh, where we were extremely lucky to see the rare De Brazza Monkeys and Sitatunga Antelope. However, that afternoon once again the heavens opened and continued for the next 12 hours solid, which is not fun when you are camping! As well as getting soaked it put paid to our intended ‘off road’ route around Mount Elgon into Uganda, as the roads were now a quagmire, so instead we stuck to the tarmac and entered Uganda through the regular route at Malaba. The crossing was relatively smooth and we soon reached Jinja on
ly for the rain to follow us, so we were in for another damp night. Thankfully today the sun is out and it is hot so wet bedding is out and Clare has managed to wash a few of our dirty clothes, so things are looking brighter again (plus sweeter smelling).Kenya has been our longest stay (40 days) and a thoughrly enjoyable one, though we won’t miss the roads, with a great mix of game parks, friends and relaxation. We have found the people friendly, the camp sites well set up, and the shops well stocked, so all in all traveling has become a tad easier and much more civilized. Uganda has been described as the ‘pearl of Africa ’ (Winston Churchill) so we are excited about this next leg and hope to report lots of adventures.
As we are now over half way we thought a few facts and figures might be of interest;
Total distance traveled: 17,000 miles ( 27,358 kms)
Bula ailments: 4 punctures, 2 new tyres, 2 new rear shocks, new slave
cylinder (clutch), 2 new rear brakes & a few leaks here & there!
Time on road: 7 months or 200+ nights (85 in the tent)
Countries: 14 - crossing deserts, mountains, savannah, tropical forest & much more!!
Animals identified/spotted : 60 – including the rare / endangered Simien Wolf,
Mountain Nyla, De Brazza Monkey, Sitatunga, Grevy Zebra and White Rhino plus 4 out of the Big Five (Elephant, Lion, Buffalo and Rhino with only the Leopard to find).
Finally, a few best wishes and thanks to the following:-
Pickles on finding a man, getting engaged and confirming a wedding day all in the space of 10 months!!!! Go girl & have fun!
Lee and Gemma on there forthcoming marriage – enjoy Kenya !!
Sabine on her promotion to account manager at SMTUK
Vicky Elmer on being such a star in helping with our rather slow money raising effort – come on there are still loads of you with rather short arms & long pockets – just go onto www.justgiving.com/grahamclare & pledge a few sheckles, thanks.
Jacko on getting caught out & finally getting on with his life!!
And last but by no means least a huge congrats & best wishes to Sally in her personal health battle, we are all with you & you know you can beat it!!
Until the next time, take care & hope the floods have subsided…..you never know there may be a late summer to come!!
posted by Clare & Graham at 7:55 am
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