Sun, Sea, Sand…….Wind and more Sand! (Egypt)

24th March to 10th April 2007

Again I have left if over two weeks to update you all and some of you may be wondering where we have got to, particularly as our mobile phones are now becoming less reliable. Well, we are still in Egypt and actually in distance terms, c.150 miles, not far from El Gouna (our last update 18 days ago); however, not wanting to keep life simple we have traveled almost 1800 miles to finally reach the Egyptian tourist Mecca of Luxor. Ok, so why the big loop and what have we been up to these last few weeks? Well, it has been quite a mix of activities and adventures! We continued to abuse Steve and Jill’s hospitality by staying on in their Villa in El Gouna for another four days, though unfortunately this was tarnished by both me getting a ‘man’ cold and the wind never letting up so we were pretty much house bound. As we were due to meet John and Jan Madigan on the 1st April we decided to leave a few days early and take a trip further south down the coast to a place called Mersa Alam for a spot of camping. However, this proved more difficult than we thought and after only one night in a fly ridden, wind swept diving camp we returned north to El-Quseir and the sanctuary of the Flamenco Hotel where we learnt that camping was not really option along the red sea coast. We also discovered that there really is nothing to do except sit by the pool, dive and snorkel so a hotel is really the only option. Still we were not complaining and enjoyed four nights in the comfort of the 3 star Flamenco (£60 half board). I took the opportunity to go diving and Clare tried her hand a snorkeling when she swam with sea turtles and a sea cow (no not Clare’s mum). We also had a fabulous couple of days with John and Jan who were staying next door in the posh Movenpick Hotel; it was great to spend time with friends and catch up with all the ‘gossip’ from back home, a truly great effort by the Madigan’s for making it over to Egypt and just a shame we had to move on so quickly.

However, 10 days on the red sea coast and with the Sudanese Visa worrying us we hit the road again on Monday 2nd April for the 400 mile trek back north to Cairo. Cairo…… what can one say! Over 18 million people crammed into the sprawling city around the Nile, half a million of whom are living / squatting in the cities cemeteries!! Running water and green space are a luxury, with the pollution reputedly akin to smoking 30 cigarettes a day! However, once again it was the driving that will stick with us and is something which has to be experienced to be believed, the Italians are mere pussy cats!

Avoiding any accidents we successfully found the campsite (thanks to GPS coordinates) and settled into the ‘Cairo cauldron’ for 3 nights. Despite, its reputation noise and pollution we had a great time and successfully got our Sudanese Vistas. The Museum and Pyramids were fantastic and kept us occupied for 2 full days, certainly one of our high lights so far. Having said that 3 nights camping in Cairo (with the mosquitoes and dead animals floating down the river) was more than enough and it was time to move on into the desert.

Before setting off we found Hosam, a back street Landover mechanic who gave Bula a quick refresh, changing her oil and filters and then it was off into the Western Sahara around the oasis route. However, our timing was not good as one of the season sand storms started to whip up and followed us all the way to Bahariya oasis where we soon found a good spot to camp. Thankfully the wind and the sand did die down that first evening though was to return with a vengeance over the next few days.

While in Bahariya we were hit with our first mechanical ‘challenge’….. a leaking few pipe, which must have got damaged during her ‘re-fresh’, typical. With the help of Talat, the camp owner, we managed to get Bula fixed but by this time the wind and sand were back so were forced to stay another night, in fact we re-named the camp Hotel California, as at one stage we thought we might never leave.

Despite still being windy we did decide to move on to the next oasis, Farafra, visiting the spectacular White Desert on the way although unfortunately it was too windy to camp. Another two nights were spent camping at different Oasis, though the sand was now beginning to ‘grate’……and boy does it everywhere!! Just ask Clare about ‘abluting’ out in the open during a sand storm!

Easter was celebrated with a bar of Dairy Milk which Clare was forced to share with a couple we had just met! After 4 nights in the desert / oasis we had a long drive east back to the Nile and Luxor, which certainly bought us back into ‘civilisation’ with a bump! Though it does have its upsides and we immediately found a KFC and devoured a zinger meal each, though I still far prefer Clare’s camp cooking surprises! Then a couple of hours wondering Karnak Temple beside the Nile, followed by a noisy night in the Campsite (we are next to a Mosque which preached and wailed all night).

Today we are catching up on chores in the campsite while waiting for a mechanic, as poor Bula has developed a ‘knock’ which I think maybe the universal joints in the prop shaft…..hey listen to me! Hoping it is nothing too serious as we need to get onto Aswan and catch the infamous ferry to Sudan before our Visas expire. Good’ol Bula has now done over 10,000 miles since leaving the UK and has been as good as gold so really hoping we can sort the knock easily.

So all in all a windy few weeks with extreme variety and some great highlights. We have really got into the swing of camping and consider the tent as ‘home’; Clare is even getting pretty relaxed about the state of toilets and showers and I think we are ready to take on the ‘real’ Africa.

As always thanks for the texts and calls and apologies’ for not always responding but both the reception and the costs don’t always allow but please don’t stop them coming as we love hearing from you. Hope everyone’s respected businesses and jobs are going well, with families and loved ones all in good health. I am not sure when the next update will be as don’t think Sudan is that set up with Internet cafes so until the next time, take care and be happy!